Alba Scots Pine Ale

As far back as 5,000 years ago, Scotland was brewing beer. Well, sort of...

The beer that existed in those days may have looked a little something like today's beers, but it certainly didn't taste or smell anything like it. While fermented bread would have been the source of alcohol for these ancient brews, the beer of the Neolithic Scotland region didn't contain any hops.

The first documented mention of hops was a few thousand years later, when ancient Roman author Pliny the Elder granted the plant a proper name (Humulus lupulus). Furthermore, the first known use of hops in brewing wasn't until about year 400 in Babylon, with widespread usage catching on much later - around the thirteenth century. [Read more: Hops History]

Apparently, Scotland missed the memo. Hops-less spruce and pine ales remained popular in the area as late as the 19th century. While it may be difficult to imagine beer without hops, thanks to Heather Ales Ltd., a division of Williams Bros Brewing, we don't have to; we can try it first-hand.

They produce a number of what they call "historic ales," all of them from a different place in Scottish history, each complete with its own story. The story of this beer is as fit for the pages of history as it is for those of fairy tales. More from the brewer:

Many early explorers, including Captain Cook, used spruce ale during long sea voyages since it prevented scurvy and ill health. Shetland spruce ale was said to "stimulate animal instincts" and give you twins.

This may not be the exact same ale that Captain James Cook enjoyed so many years ago, but at first sip it becomes abundantly clear that this is a beer from another time and place.

Alba is a triple style ale brewed to a traditional Highland recipe from Scots pine and spruce shoots pickled during early spring. Pure malted barley is boiled with the young sprigs of pine for several hours then the fresh shoots of the spruce are added for a short infusion before fermentation. A tawny brown strong ale with spruce aroma, rich malt texture, complex wood flavour and lingering finish. Best drunk at room temperature from a wine goblet as an after dinner digestive.

A brew like no other...

The act of drinking a beer as unique as this spruce and pine ale requires a moment of reflection. It may be worthy to note that for every beer found on this blog, there are three or four others that didn't make the cut. The irony here is that as I weed through thick and thin, write with intent to share my experiences, and focus on beer exploration and education, this one simple brew takes me right back to the question "What is Beer?" ...Precisely why this beer made the cut.

This brings to mind an article I read in the September '08 issue of Wine Enthusiast; it was a roundtable Q&A with four major players in the American craft beer industry: Jim Koch of Sam Adams, Tomme Arthur of Port Brewing and Lost Abbey, Peter Bouckaert of New Belgium, and Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head.

The interviewer, asked, "What is your response to people who sniff, 'I don't drink beer.'" I particularly enjoyed Mr. Calagione's witty reply, "... what you're thinking of as beer I wouldn't drink either." More or less a stab at the majoritavely popular, mass-produced American pale lagers, the statement nonetheless made me think about this Alba ale. I don't know that a lot of people would even call this stuff beer.

By no means am I saying that's a bad thing, it just goes to show that perception is the great divide in the craft beer movement; microbreweries and the like will continue to battle perception and connotation, despite the quality of their product: the craft brewer's Original Sin.

Experience

I received the Alba Scots Pine in a sampler pack, given to me as a gift. Alongside three others from Heather Ale Ltd's collection, the Alba was simply screaming for attention, begging to be enjoyed. Perhaps it was the neon green label that caught my eye, or perhaps it was my over zealous curiosity that drew me to this beer. Poured into our usual tulip glass this beer pours a clear coppery-amber with a small off-white head.

The aroma is herbally, fruity, and yes... a bit piney. A substantial mouthfeel delivers moderate carbonation and a surprisingly sweet, malty background. The earthy spruce and pine flavors suddenly dominate on the mid-palate and carry the sticky stew into a long-lingering finish. I found myself pondering the taste more than the alcohol content, as the drink did a fine job of masking the hefty 7.5% ABV.

The taste was a bit shocking at first, I must admit, but I suppose I am lucky enough to have a palate that warmed to these interesting flavors. A good number of reviewers had somewhat of an adverse reaction to the beverage, while I found myself enjoying it to the last sip.

This provides a fine counterpoint to my rant about 'style' during my Le Merle write up. Since this beer doesn't really 'fit in' with its peers, it is important to understand the complexity and individuality of such a robust style as this. The same would hold true with some other specialty brews... 'smoke beer' comes to mind. It is inappropriate to give a beer low marks if it is brewed accurately to a particular style; but at the end of the day, if you don't like a beer, there's nothing wrong with that- just don't drink it! Suffice this whole experience to say Alba Scots Pine is an acquired taste, I happened to enjoy it quite a bit.

Final Thoughts

All preconceived notions aside, Alba Scots Pine Ale is indeed a beer, if only by technicality. Although beer doesn't, by definition, have to contain hops,I would be hard-pressed to compare this beer to any other. Quite simply, this is like no drink I've ever had in my life. Open your mind, see for yourself.

Scotland - 7.5% ABV

Williams Bros Brewing [website]

Spruce and Pine Ale

Comments

[VB]

I found this beer while searching for a birthday gift for a friend. He really enjoyed the Rader Blonde that we had on tap. That beer did have a small number of fans who came back several times for this juniper berry fused beer. I searched in one of our local beer stores for something similar but found this instead.
Enjoying your blog.
- chrisc at VictoryBar

[Peri]

Interesting to know.