Often over-used and more often under-valued, "tradition" is a word that has taken on an array of interpretations over time; not the least of which implies that a standard practice, culture of beliefs, or set of customs is passed on with intent that they remain unchanged over time - despite advancement of surrounding cultural, environmental, or technological evolutions that would otherwise become an influencing factor.

For Cantillion, a small family-owned brewery located in Belgium's booming capital city of Brussels, tradition is upheld in the very literal sense of the word; and while "traditional" may suggest "sameness" in some circles, the lambic beers from Cantillon are among the most unique in the world.

While Cantillon was founded in 1900, many of the recipies and much of the equipment used today is original from inception. This is the only lambic brewery in Brussels of many that relocated from Payottenland in the 19th century, deemed "the most visitable Brewery in Belgium and for many the most memorable," by CAMRA's Good Beer Guide Belgium. 

The Guide explains that the Cantillon brewery is also an official museum, so the preservation of methodology and equipment is quite intentional, and tells us:

Jean Van Roy has been running the show since 2003 and has set a clear path for the old firm. He worries about how he can supply his growing international market without compromising quality, whether the current upsurge of interest will continue and what will happen if modern Anderlecht [Brussels municipality, and home to Cantillon] intrudes any further.

Van Roy's mission to uphold the Cantillon family tradition is a noble one, of a philosophy virtually nonexistent in American culture (and thus most intriguing to me). As much of the world scurries to keep up with the changing times, Cantillon struggles to maintain a steady stroke upstream, looking to fortify the last stronghold for unadulterated brewing technique of a greatly endangered style of beer, the classic lambic. 

A Lesson on Lambic

While there are a number of different styles that can qualify as lambic, only one place on Earth is thought to be home to the airborne wild yeast strains necessary to produce this spontaneously fermented delicacy. As Wikipedia explains:

Unlike conventional ales and lagers, which are fermented by carefully cultivated strains of brewer's yeasts, lambic beer is instead produced by spontaneous fermentation: it is exposed to the wild yeasts and bacteria that are said to be native to the Senne valley, in which Brussels lies. It is this unusual process which gives the beer its distinctive flavour: dry, vinous, and cidery, with a slightly sour aftertaste.

Today the beer is generally brewed from a grist containing approximately 70% barley malt and 30% unmalted wheat. When the wort has cooled, it is left exposed to the open air so that fermentation may occur spontaneously. While this exposure is a critical feature of the style, many of the key yeasts and bacteria are now understood to reside within the brewery and its (usually timber) fermenting vessels in numbers far greater than any delivered by the breeze. Up to 86 microorganisms have been identified in lambic beer, the most significant being Brettanomyces bruxellensis and B. lambicus. The process is generally only possible between October and May as in the summer months there are too many unfavourable organisms in the air that could spoil the beer.

Lambics are generally hopped using generous amounts of only dried hops (often aged for multiple years) as a preservative, but dried as to not impart the astringent or overly bitter, citrusy or oily qualities that fresh hops bring.

Lastly, the lambic is moved to oak or chestnut vessels to mature for two to three years. Depending on the style, it may be blended with premature lambic and reconditioned in the bottle. Lambic can be the umbrella term for any of the following styles:

Unblended or pure lambic

Gueze - a blend of young and old lambic

Mars - made of the secondary runoff from lambic brewing

Faro - a blended lambic that is further sweetened with sugar, caramel or molasses

Kriek - lambic refermented with sour cherries

There are also lambics made with other types of fruit (Cantillon's Rose de Gambrinus, for instance, is brewed with raspberries). The growing popularity trend, however, is more toward commercial grade beers that are made with sugary fruit syrups and even some that are not derived from a true lambic base at all.

Thus we have an ample, if perhaps novice, overview of the lambic and its variants. The irony enters the picture, however, when considering the case of legislation that exists to prevent the use of the label "lambic" except where the brew fits the above technical definition. While some of these syrup-flavored "abominations" (as tagged in CAMRA'S Belgium Guide) actually fit the legal criteria, the incredibly unique, spontaneously fermented Iris - for which this posting is dedicated - does not, and is therefore technically NOT a lambic.

[*pause for dramatic effect*]

Iris is brewed with 100% malt (containing no wheat), and furthermore is hopped more than once with fresh hops, which is entirely uncharacteristic of the lambic - or any particularly acidic beer for that matter, prohibiting its official admittance to the family. Created in 1998 by Cantillon (the foremost lambic brewer in the world) in celebration of the 20th anniversary of the Museum of Gueze, this NON-lambic is brewed very much in the lambic style, yet remains an incredibly unique play on the style- surely the only of its craft in the world.

Experience

Cantillon has long been the elusive white rabbit of my beer travels. For some time my hopes and dreams of obtaining the rare brew were but a mirage entrapped in the concave prism of my tulip stemware. All of that changed when I discovered a healthy selection of Cantillon brews on the shelf of my new favorite bottle shop.

The only thing holding me back was the price - $16 to $25 for any one of their 750mL beers. I waited patiently for months, knowing that eventually I would have to take the plunge to experience the real deal. Opportunity struck during my last visit, for among the selection was the 2007 Iris in a 375mL bottle for just over $10. Still pricier than my average buy, I felt this a reasonable fee for an exceptional beer.

Iris, named for the symbol of its hometown, pours a hazy ruby-orange with an incredible foamy head. Carbonation sweeps in from all sides to form a bubbly, pillowy mass that dissipates quickly. An extremely sharp and pungent aroma with strong yeasty brett character (barnyard, horse blanket) and some subtle sweet floral undertones is prominent, even from a distance.

The mouthfeel is extremely bubbly, medium bodied and crisp. For an unblended beer this was surprising, as a traditional lambic should be on the flatter side... then again, this is no lambic! The flavors are intensely tart, with a powerful funk and some vinegary citrus notes (lemon zest, graprefruit), as a ton of bitterness carries off an extremely bitter, floral, oaky finish. Iris is oddly quenching while almost puckering. As the beer settled to room temperature, and my tongue to the intensity of the brew, it became quite enjoyable.

Final Thoughts

Cantillon Iris is a one-of-a-kind beer that will not appeal to all palates, but will prove rewarding to those seeking more from their recurring sour ales or Flanders Reds. The brett intensity and tartness will be offputting for some, but the complexity and individuality is truly outstanding. This beer delivers a punch from every direction and a finish I will not soon forget.

There are few beers and even fewer breweries that will send me on such an eager journey to study more of their origination, and my first Cantillon experience has been well worth the trip. Iris is challenging, yet exceptional - an acquired taste for a conditioned palate.

Lost in thought of time and tradition, I am left to ponder the trailblazing brewers of today, reinventing that which may need, instead, a revitalization. It saddens me to think that one day we may lose this specialty brew to shrinking market share and growing conglomerates; and above all I hope this current resurging interest in small production breweries, particularly Cantillon, sparks life into an eager generation with a renewed understanding of tradition.

Belgium - 5% ABV

Brasserie Cantillon [website]

All-Malt in the Lambic Style