Uerige Doppelsticke
Since 1862 Uerige Hausbrauerei has been producing world class brews in the Altstadt ("old town") of Düsseldorf, Germany. Steeped in tradition and located in the heart of a booming metropolis, Uerige is a staple in a region aptly deemed the longest bar in the world.
The Altstadt features more than 300 bars and discotheques along the river Rhine and is the birthplace to the Altbier - a top-fermenting brew with longer-than-average fermenting times. Uerige brews a handful of products: the standard Alt, the Unfiltered Alt, the Doppelsticke, and the Weizen. As of 2008 they also distill their Alt and their Doppelsticke into whiskey (called 'Stickum' and 'Stickum Plus' respectively).
Strangely enough, liquor is forbidden on the Uerige premises - in every room except at the Stickum bar. The brewer's website explains the stipulation, with the story of of Rudi Arnold, proprietor of Uerige, 1937-1976:
Arnold was one in a long row of headstrong owners. Amongst the legends that are told about him is the one about the tax for high-percentage liquor, which he refused to pay. His solution: he did not serve liquor anymore and had signs put up which are still hanging on the walls of the UERIGE today.
History of Uerige
Although there is no exact date on when the original structure was built, there are papers of ownership on record for the Uerige house dating back to 1658. In those days the town house was established as an inn for travelers. The site became a brewery in 1862 once under the ownership of Wilhelm Cürten.
Uerige Willhelm ("Grumpy William") ran the brewery until his death in 1886 when ownership transferred to his son. The brewery changed hands several more times until Rudolf Arnold came along in 1937. 'Rudi' Arnold was the owner of Uerige throughout World War II when the building was completely destroyed in a 1944 air raid.
Arnold rebuilt Uerige in the years following, and can be credited for some of the building's additions including the Neweaan and the Brauhaus. The business took on it's greatest growth, however, under Christa and Josef Schnitzler who took over in 1976.
The renowned brewmaster and his family changed little of the layout of the site, but invested greatly in the brewery and added renovations like air conditioning. Their son Michael has been running Uerige since 1999. The brewery today is a booming business with more than a half-dozen dining areas, some reserved for private parties.
If you would like to read more about the history of Uerige, head over to the website where there's a great timeline and walk through of the brewing process.
Experience
My first sampling of Uerige Dopplesticke was at the Cloverleaf Tavern about a year ago. They don't regularly carry the beer, but it was a welcomed guest bottle. I recall liking the beer quite a bit, but I had not returned to it until this sampling.
Upon recommendation from a Twitter pal, I sought out the brew at my favorite beer store. These are my reflections:
Doppelsticke pours dark sticky brown, mostly opaque in the tulip glass. About a finger's worth of creamy white, buoyant head. It smells malty - rich of dark ripe fruit and caramel. Tastes sweet and sticky with a slightly roasty mid-palate and a dark fruit finish.
A nice gentle bitterness carries off through the end; a little alcohol at the tail. Very flavorful, rich, medium bodied, light to moderate carbonation. An easy drinker, but sophisticated and complex enough to please a beer geek. Very nice, enjoyed immensely.
Final Thoughts
Doppelsticke is the only export of this Altstadt brewery. I can't help but think this beer is as much a classic in it's hometown as it is here in the states - a veritable cornerstone in the 'longest bar in the world'.
A style born on native soil from a brewery with roots entrenched just shy of 150 years, Doppelsticke is an instant winner in my book. This is one of those carefully crafted brews that leaves its mark in its finish - a beautiful bitter ending I won't soon forget. Showcasing a perfect malt balance among a potent roasty mid-palate, this is a unique German beer with a delightfully welcoming dark fruit nose and caramel flavor profile.
Doppelsticke is a fine representation of brewing tradition and consistency - a product of the Reinheitsgebot, and yet a reminder that brewing basics and quality ingredients can undoubtedly top the flare and experimentation of modern brews.
Germany - 8.5% ABV
Uerige Hausbrauerei [website]
Altbier


Thu, July 23, 2009
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